How to Buy
a Bargain Wine
Standing in front of rows and rows of wines to choose from is a
daunting task, and it is not made easier by the slim pickings in the
reasonable price range of $10 or under. [Note: In 1996 when I wrote this you could still find a bottle of decent wine for under $10. Now it is closer to $15. -SR]
Armed with a little philosophy, and perhaps our
shopping list, the task becomes, if not easy, at least less
daunting.
Never forget that wine production is a business like any other. As
such the most popular items are the most expensive; although not
always the best.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have become the wine catch phrases
that most of us are comfortable with. This has made the demands for
these wines so high, that it is all but impossible to find bargains
made from these grapes. See why cheaper wines are
not always a bargain.
Instead turn to the huge variety of wines made from less popular
grapes. An extra bonus is that nearly all non Cab and Chard grape
varieties are better with food than the heavier and more popular Cab
and Chard.
In Red Wines:
Zinfandel, and I don't mean white. This grape is all but
native to California (it probably came from Italy where it is now
hard to find) and produces a huge range of styles, and prices. Nearly
all of the under $10 versions are worth trying.
Pinot Noir is rarely found under $10, but a few are, and as
such should be sought out. Look for our shopping
list.
Syrah is gaining in popularity, and unfortunately, price.
While lesser labels are available for $10, nearly all are worth
trying, and most worth going slightly above your $10 mark.
Mouvedre, Nebbiolo, Grenache and other varietals you may never
have heard of are starting to make their presence known. Try a
few.
Plain old Red Table Wine, without a specific variety listed
often offers great value. Imported versions tend to be less of a
bargain, no matter what their price, because of the cost of shipping,
and the damage to the wine from the shipping itself.
In White Wines:
Sauvignon Blanc (Fume Blanc) is one of the most food friendly
white wines, and is available in a huge variety of styles, almost all
of them affordable.
Chenin Blanc is all but forgotten in the US, and it has no one
but the American Winemakers to blame. Too often sweet out of balance
(although I am a fan of sweet Chenin, when it is not cloying) this
wine is disregarded by many. Try a Vouvray from France, or a dry
Chenin Blanc from the Pacific Northwest.
Riesling is certainly one of the finest white wine grapes on
the planet, and yet it is shunned in the US for being sweet. Debate
on the sweet drinking habits of Americans aside, not all Rieslings
are sweet. From the Pacific Northwest and the vineyards of Germany
come many tart and refreshing Rieslings that are exceptional with
food, and lighter in alcohol than the powerhouse Chard.
Gewurztraminer is more often slightly sweet when made in the
US, and bone dry when it comes from the Alsace region of France.
Great to sip, or with lunch, this spicy white deserves your
attention.
Pinot Blanc is up and coming. Its dry crisp style, often with
no aftertaste, is a real crowd pleaser, and appropriate with a wide
style of foods. Alsace, France is the unquestionable home of this
grape with a good variety of choices in the under $10 range. The
domestic versions may be more expensive, but are worth experimenting
with.
Why Cheaper Wines are not Always a Bargain
When a label states the grape variety, it must be between 75 to
100% of the stated variety (depending where in the world it is made).
When that grape variety stated is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or
Chardonnay, economics plays a major role.
These grape varieties are the most popular, and their fruit the most
expensive. In order to produce a well priced version of one of these
varietals, corners must be cut.
Where blending with an unspecified grape is allowed (Primarily the
US, especially CA) that grape is certain to be the cheapest one that
the winemaker can find. Too often Thompson Seedless for white or
Flame Tokay for reds. Yes, supermarket grapes.
Another, and even more common way to cut corners is press wine. The
first juice from the grapes, that needs little to no urging is Free
Run, subsequent pressings yield juice of lessening quality. By adding
back in these press wines the winemaker can make a wine that is
legally what is stated on the label, without being the quality
generally associated with that grape variety.
In wines, as in life, if it seems too good to be true, it is not
true.
