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How Port is Made
There are 9 recommended top grape varieties for Port, with
Bastardo being the most used, but not the highest quality. The best
for quality are Touriga Nacional, Roriz and Barroca - the others have
names with Tinta or Tinto in them - while 9 are recommend a huge
number are legally allowed.
The grapes are grown on steep hillsides vineyards up the Duoro
river. As the years go by, less of the prized hillside vineyards are
used, eschewed in favor of the flat river side vineyards that can be
maintained with tractors. The best grapes will always come from the
steep hillsides.
The grapes are picked, often still by hand if the terraces are too
steep. They are placed in a crusher (or for the tourist are still
stomped on by foot) and left to ferment on the skins to get a dark
color.
Once the fermentation is to the correct point (with some natural
sugar left), the wine is is poured into huge containers called Cubas
half filled with neutral grape alcohol (bad brandy). The alcohol
kills all the yeast and fermentation ends.
After this, the wine is blended with other lots, depending on the
type of Port it will end up being.
In the Spring the young Port is stored in containers called
"pipes" and shipped by rail or river to the town of Oporto by the sea
(actually by law, because of the fire risk, all Port must reside
across the river from Oporto in a town called Vila Nova de Gaia).
If it was a good enough vintage, the best of the wine is bottled
to be sold (after more 2 more years of barrel aging) as Vintage Port.
The rest of the wine, and all of it in lesser years, is left in
wooden casks to age even longer. Vintage Port rewards decades of
bottle aging.
For Character Ports (house styles, with names like Sandeman's
Warrior Port) the wine is blended again, to provide a consistent
style, and then bottled, after a short period of wood aging
(depending on the style). These wines do not improve with bottle age.
For Late Bottled Vintage Port (L.B.V.), the wood aging continues
for at least 5 years, and then it is bottled. These wines do not
improve with bottle age. They were created for restaurants to serve
as a reasonably priced alternative to Vintage Port, and as they do
not need decanting, to be easier to deal with.
Tawny Port is aged for many years in wooden barrels (the better
Tawny Ports tell you the age of the youngest wine in the blend). As
the Port ages, it throws sediment, just as Vintage Port does in the
bottle. On a regular basis the wood Port (as all Ports still in a
barrel are known) is drawn off the sediment and put into a new barrel
(this is called racking). Each time the Port is racked, it looses
some of its coloring agents, until the once dark red wine is "tawny"
in color, and easy to see through. The best Tawny Ports rival Vintage
Port in price. These wines do not improve with bottle age.
There are also Ruby and White Ports, but these are more popular in
Europe where they are sold chilled as a cocktail. They are rare in
the US. They are universally of low quality. Very inexpensive "Tawny"
Ports are also found, mostly in Europe, that are a blend of Ruby and
White Ports.
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