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For some time before the trip I was asked repeatedly if China even
had a wine industry.
I had heard of one wine, Dynasty, but had never tried it. I can now
say that yes,
Dynasty is by far the most successful, but it is not the only winery.
In fact there are some 100 wineries in China. The problem is that
many of these wineries only produce brandy or traditional Chinese
alcoholic beverages and medicines. Jiu is the Chinese term for all
alcohol, and they tend to lump them all together in their minds,
whether it is grape wine (putao jiu) or beer (pi jiu) or liquor
(jiu), they refer to them interchangeably. This is one of the most
important insights to the Chinese wine industry.
Premium cork finished wines made from vinifera grapes (such as
Cabernet and Chardonnay) are still a minority. The wines (and from
here out I will refer only to European style wines) tend to be very
light although reasonably well made.
There are two major problems plaguing the Chinese wine industry. The
first is getting the farmers to let the grapes ripen. Almost always
the grapes are picked early so the farmers have no fear of rot or
other harvest dangers, and this leads to wines that must have a great
deal of sugar added to them to produce table wines. The second is
economics. A bottle of wine can sell for no more than $3 a bottle to
compete in the market, and the Chinese $3 bottles of wine are not
unlike our $3 bottles of wine.
The immense potential of a country with 1.2 billion people (and 300
Million of them are sophisticated city dwellers) has led foreign
(primarily French) investors to set up Joint Ventures with the
Chinese, such as Dynasty Winery (Remy-Martin). There will come a day
when the wines of China are commonly found in Chinese restaurants
around the world, and the wines of the world are found in China.